Throughout Tunisia, the days of 27 Ramadan and Eid are celebrated in a unanimous: the maoussem couscous with meat-mandatory, and sweets for the feast. In general, 27 is also an occasion where the bridegroom is a gift, a jewel at its beautiful promise. Or, is the day chosen to formalize an application for marriage, and enjoy this night of blessing.

If today, the cakes are present in all the houses in all regions, wealth, let us not forget that this very recent-avalanche, swept a number of very beautiful tradition .. But some areas still remain very original rituals: “the charmoula, with its two variants djerbienne and Sfaxien, and” couffin of Eid, among others.

“The charmoula” of the Eid custom is a special part of djerbiens. These are mainly residents of Houmt-Souk, and the coastal villages, which maintain this tradition of marine food origin. The seamen mahon trading especially with Alexandria, where it would sell pottery, weaving and sponges varied took with them this particular dish that can be stored several days. And this is not a coincidence that we find this food, in addition to Sfax and Kerkennah in Alexandria precisely. Let us not forget that at the time, many of these Raïs mahon had a wife with children in regularly ports they served, polygamy is legally permitted.

With the spread of powerful refrigerators, and from mid-Ramadan, the market Houmt-Souk, the race for the purchase of fish needed to “charmoula, with the high jump in prices that come along. The preference of fish from 200 grams a serving restaurant, marbled type, saupe, mule jumping. Small grouper, toothed, wolves, for larger grants.

Everything is fried, very often the eve of Eid. It is the accompaniment of “Charmoula, we serve anyone from presenting the vows, family member generally. It is simply the onion, cooked in oil, not fried, spiced in a special way. He also used the famous “yehni”, a stew of pumpkin, onion and chickpeas, add some raisins. “It’sa base!” Says a friend, speaking in coded language of promosports bettors. Understand that this is a dish that consumes the island throughout the day of Eid.

It should be noted that after the morning prayer, all women and men, are at the cemetery for a visit to the dead. And that day, the mix is tolerated. It was only towards ten o’clock that begin formal visits. Then, men are generally among those who served as paterfamilias, for a meal collective, each bringing its share of the two dishes. The meal is taken in a room reserved for this type of ceremony, or to receive a guest: the makhzen “, a semi-independent piece Menzel.

A custom of importance: the meeting around the traditional dish, this division “of bread and salt, helps maintain the cohesion of the clan and its allies. We speak, on kissing, we sit together. Any disputes are rounded, enmities are overcome. We make peace if there is serious hostility a. A time when the spirits find wisdom.

“The couffin of Eid”

The other, usually the inhabitants of the villages of the island, except for the “yehni” serve visitors an assortment of dried fruits and sweets. As of 27 Ramadan, had to scramble to large grocery stores known: we will order a “couffin of Eid.” This is the gift that must do all married this year in his beautiful family, where his wife leads greet his parents. A dozen kilos of a well-known: almonds, chick peas, peanuts, roasted beans, squash seeds (glibettes white) kind caramel candy, chips nougat, and year are added now, walnuts, hazelnuts , Pistachios, pine nuts, sugared almonds, Brazil nuts. Modernism requires! Many keep the habit of reporting a “Cribs” at home. Almost in every home, or to lounge in the living room, throne and a huge dish filled with berm, all of this. Any guest must peck, it is so.

Today, new habits, very small minority, are emerging. Population movements to Tunis and other cities have introduced the “hlalem and stew peas, for lunch.

On the eve of Eid is “Arfa” Children’s Day and it is particularly in Djerba, usually shared with the Jewish community on the island who practice the same custom in some of its holidays. The kings children, girls and boys, are putting their new clothes well, circumstances have sub in hand, and buy their own toys, candy, snacks. They are thus in small groups, accompanied by a young adult often wander through the stalls and alleyways. The answer to this feature is very simple: it is the presence of children, Muslim or Jewish, all family gatherings, all the ceremonies, to share these moments, and integrate into the community. Do not let the group off the day of Eid.

At the Sfaxien

Sfax is known: it is where pastries Eid houses are exquisite taste. This is also where some specialties are unknown elsewhere, or at least difficult to achieve. The bjawiya is unique here, never brittle in the day, not too sweet. Who knows the “Laklouk”? Small pellets based on a blend of powdered dried fruits, impregnated with honey or sugar syrup. Two balls and you have your ration PLG and calories for three days! The mlebbess, small balls of almond flour soaked in rose water, coated with egg white: a few craftsmen bakers are able to successfully delicate cooking. And the hundreds of plates that will baklaouwa watering hot syrup out of the oven, in the same bakery. A wonderful spectacle, the ballet brought trays on the head, bakeries around from mid-Ramadan.

But it is the charmoula which remains the traditional dish. Here is a culinary preparation: the onion is cooked, long, perfumed with cinnamon, buttons dried roses, a little ginger, saffron, and obviously raisins soaked, stoned and past the mill. The very small cooking fire on a canoun of preference. This gives a very smooth jam that accompanies the salted fish.

A special preparation too. In the meantime, from the twentieth day of Ramadan, buying fish relatively thick, mullet, small grouper, sea bream, toothed. Eels are very popular. Évide on the beast, on sale quite strongly, it twisted all in a jute cloth, tied well, it raises above a weight heavy enough, and it leaves the salt do its purpose. On the eve of Eid, we soak the salted fish in several waters, then cooked large broths or steam. It passes under cold water then to keep a firm flesh. The “charmoula” sweet and salted fish is delicious. Today, you can order fish directly from the fishmonger or simply buy the dried and salted cod, imported from Spain or Portugal for the occasion: the famous “bacalaou.”

The bread is quite special. In the meantime, the city is practically dead two or three days. It is therefore a provision of bread and the rest. Large logs meal dotted with black cumin, which cut into slices the same finesse to taste an excellent toast bread.

And then there is not immune to any dish topped with homemade pastries, above, and a glass of barley to accompany mielleuses bites. Syrups consumed the most in Sfax during this period are, in addition to barley, “base”, now that I know the meaning, rose syrup, grenadine and pistachio.

Ghost town that day. Men make the rounds of relatives and allies, according to an agreed hierarchy. Children, bands, navigate the city, spend their jackpot sweets, sodas, balloons. Until a few years ago, some cinemas in the city scheduled meetings specifically for children: cartoons and Chaplin. Today, children are moving into these monstrous mechanical rotating to take place in a cabin in a tournament or rocket. Hardly time to take to Gagarin.

F. T

By Fateh Thabet